Thursday, April 30, 2015

Day13 Monday,April 17, Le Havre, France



Sunday was another relaxing day at sea.  We played cards, read and people watched…the days go by fast.  We are still eating in the Horizon Court..we dress once a day.  And the food choices are excellent.  Seas are very calm, but it’s cold and cloudy.  We went south from Ireland and turned  left into the English Channel towards France.  We dock early and our tour starts at 8 a.m. 


Monday: 
Le Havre, which lies along the English Channel on France's western coast, is the common port-of-entry for big ships calling at Paris and most typically a place to go through on your way to the City of Lights. While Le Havre is an ancient and textured city, dating back to the 16th century, it was very badly bombed during World War II, losing much of its historic appeal. Even still, it's been added to UNESCO's list of world heritage .

Many on the ship chose to make the 3 hour train/motorcoach trip to Paris; we opted for a tour of Normandy.  There were 8 of us on a privately booked tour (connected up through Cruise Critic).  The tour was called “The Band of Brothers Tour” and was with Overlord Tours.  They took us to the main sites of the Omaha Beach sector and followed the footsteps of the famous Band of Brothers (Easy Company of the 101st Airborne Division ). 

We watched the DVD series Band of Brothers to refresh our memories on what all  happened and got familiar with the men in the 101st Airborne and Easy Company and the areas where they landed and fought.  The series was remarkable….we watched it twice.

On June 6, 1944, Allied forces launched the largest amphibious attack in  history on five beaches at Normandy.  Nearly 7,000  vessels were involved in the landing and 12,000 aircraft flying 14,000 sorties.  By the 4th of July, one million men had landed, 148,000 vehicles with half-a-billion tons of supplies.  Today, there are several cemeteries in Normandy, including Bayeaux, the largest British cemetery in the world with 4,648 buried and La Cambe, where 21,111 Germans are buried

Words in a blog cannot express the things we saw today.  It was a hurried trip to see the highlights and there was so much we missed.  But the things we saw were spectacular  and makes us want to come back.  You could spend days and days exploring Normandy.

One of 3 houses along the beach that survived the attack

On Omaha Beach
The day started about 8 as they picked us up at the ship.  The group we were with were from New York, Gettysburg, and Texas.  Interesting group of people, very nice and fun to be with.  There were about 3 vans (8 plus driver per van).  The roads are great…4 lane divided highway with beautiful countryside…large farms with typical French-looking houses (chimneys on both ends).  Fields of yellow canola (seeds are used to make canola oil) and cows, sheep and blooming apple trees.  It took about 2 hours (with a pit stop) to get to the first stop—Omaha Beach.  We walked right down on the beach to get the perspective of the landings.  Then we looked up to the German bunkers overlooking the beach about 130 feet up.

Scenes from the Beach:
German bunkers overlooking
 from the beach

Our guide, Sophie, had a strong French accent and was sometimes difficult to understand, but she knew her history down to the gun placements and was very good.   One thing that she emphasized and was new to us was that the German machine guns from the ridges were shooting crossfire as opposed to shooting straight out towards the sea.  This was intended to prevent the landing parties from reaching the bunkers holding the main German artillary. 


Inside the Cemetery Memorial
American Cemetery

From there, we drove up to the American Cemetery, located overlooking Omaha Beach, where over 9,000 Americans are buried there.  The place is beautiful and so well maintained.  It was designed by a man from Philadelphia.  The families were given the choice as to whether they wanted their loved ones buried at Normandy or brought home.  Over 40% remained in Normandy and are buried here.  As far as you can see, there are white crosses.  A beautiful memorial is in the middle of the cemetery.

Scenes from Pointe du Hoc:  
Field where many died


Bomb crater

German bunker at Pointe du Hoc


Memorial at Pointe du Hoc  on top of an observation bunker
From there we went to Point du Hoc, a point (literally) between Omaha Beach and Utah Beach where the Rangers scaled the cliffs during heavy machine gun fire in order to destroy German gun placements located on top of the cliffs.  When they got to the top, the guns had been moved back about 2 miles inland (due to the bombing of the coastline in preparation for the invasion).  When they got to the top, one was quoted as saying, “We did all this for nothing?”  So one of the men found a trail and followed it and found the German guns.  These pictures show the bunkers, the blown ammunition bunkers and the lookout bunker off the point.  Bunkers were everywhere, mostly connected with tunnels.   Huge bombing craters everywhere. Amazing.

Sainte Mere Eglise was next.  A little town very prominent in the Band of Brothers movie.  The paratroopers landed in localities all over the area (not according to the plans)  When the Germans heard the planes, they started shooting and many planes were hit and went down some with the paratroopers still on board.  Others jumped when the planes got hit and missed their drop zones completely.  The best laid plans were wrong that night.  The 82nd and 101st were completely off their zones .  Some landed in a field that had been flooded by the Germans and with 130 lbs of equipment on them, drowned. 
Ste Mere Eglise

One trooper, Pvt. Steele, is noted for landing in Sainte Mere Eglise and hung his parachute on the church steeple in the middle of town.  In the movie, “The Longest Day”, Red Buttons played this character.  While he hung there, Germans were all around and saw him move.  They shot him—in the foot.  He hung there for two hours playing dead before the Allies got organized and proceeded into town.  After surviving that, he died years later of throat cancer—he had started smoking in the war.

There is a parachute and manniquin dressed in military garb hanging from the church today.  The church is beautiful and just like we saw in the movies (except for the damage that the movie showed).  There is a stained glass window in the church in memorial to the paratroopers that lost their lives in the liberation of Normandy.  A huge organ has been donated and dedicated to all, military and civilians, who died there.

Scenes frorm Sainte Mere Eglise:


Inside the church


Organ


Ste Mere Eglise



Church at Angoville-au-Plain
We ate lunch in Sainte Mere Eglise, but only had a short time to look around.  So we loaded back in the van and headed via back roads for Angoville-au-Plain, a little, little town  where the battle raged for 3 days around a little church.    Two paratrooper medics from the 101st landed there (they were two of the few who actually landed where they were meant to land—others died as they landed) and set up a make shift hospital in the church.  They saved the lives of over 80 people (local and military) including two German soldiers.  The town was taken over by German soldiers and because the soldiers had treated and saved the German soldiers’ lives, the German commander put a guard outside the church for protection.  Allied forces took back control later.

Inside the church, there were pews that still showed blood stains where the

injured were treated.  This picture shows the bloodstain of a 19 year old boy who died from a head wound.  Also, in the church are several stained glass windows honoring the soldiers, the civilians and the war.  Two of the windows are directly across from one another and show identical saints—two twin brother saints.  Their images are in the middle of the church.  During the battle,
Crack in the floor where the mortor fell
One of the twin saints

when the medics were operating inside the church, they looked up at a noise, then a mortor shell fell to the floor right between the saints….it never exploded.

There was a local family nearby whose home was surrounded by Germans…
eventually killing the father, mother and sister of a 13 year old boy.  The boy was wounded and ended up in the church to be treated.  The medics saved his life.  The two medics were Robert Wright and Kenneth Moore.   In recent years, Robert Wright, while touring Normandy, returned to the town and to the church.  After he recognized where he actually was and when the townspeople learned of who he was, they immediately made arrangements for him to be reunited with the 13 year old boy, now a grown man.  It was an amazing story…one of many, I’m sure.

Robert Wright died and his choice was to be buried in the little cemetery by the church.  There is a simple marker with the initials
 R. E. W .

One more stop was via back roads and is available only to the Overlord
Brecourt Manor Farm


Bunker line
Tours….access to the exact spot of a battle shown in the Band of Brothers movie.  It is located at the farm of Brecourt Manor—just simply a cow pasture.  Orders were given Lt Winters to take out 4 German bunkers that were known to be firing towards Utah Beach.  They did it .  The strategy used for that battle is still used today in ground attacks. The bunkers/guns were found and destroyed.  One of the men in the Easy Company (Marlarky) was actually contacted by the tour company for verification of the exact location.  He came over and showed them exactly where it was and what happened that day.

Whew.  Fast and Furious, but so enlightening, so moving, so awesome.    We recommend seeing the movie….we’ll see it again when we get home.  There are several other movies that also are about the Normandy invasion.  “Saving Private Ryan” is one that we’d like to see again.

We got back to the ship about 6 p.m., ate a great dinner and will relax for the evening.    Watched motorcoach after motorcoach return from various tours around Normandy and Paris…must have been 20-30—unloading masses of people.  Sooooo  glad we took this smaller tour where we could get to places the coaches cannot.

Believe it or not:  Ronnie wants to come back to France.  He loved it.  Wonders will never cease.

Views from the countryside:


French Cow  (Mooo Oui)
Church that survived the bombing


Tomorrow (Tuesday), we take the train from Rotterdam into Amsterdam – we have tickets for the canal HoHo boat.  And hopefully, free wifi to get some blogs posted.

Had to buy more internet minutes...pics are taking all my minutes to load.  We are in Hamburg, Germany now...will post again when we get time....

Bonjour....






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